How to Assemble Your Freebord

Truck and Binding Assembly (click to enlarge)

Mounting Your Trucks:

Tools youll need: phillips screwdriver & crescent wrench, pliers or 10mm wrench/socket

1.Find the eight pre-drilled truck mounting holes on underside of deck.
2.Poke holes through black griptape using small allen key provided.
3.Insert eight mounting bolts through holes on TOP side of deck.
4.Mount trucks to bottom of deck with center wheels facing inwards.
5.Tighten eight nuts firmly (bolt heads should be flush with top of deck).

Mounting Your Bindings:

Tools youll need: phillips screwdriver; crescent wrench, pliers or 10mm wrench/socket

1.Find four pre-drilled binding mount holes on underside of deck.
2.Poke holes through black griptape using small allen key provided.
3.Insert four mounting bolts through holes on BOTTOM side of deck (nuts will be on top of the deck when assembled).
4.Mount bindings to top of deck and tighten nuts firmly (bolt heads should be flush with bottom of deck).

When mounting Freebords S2 bindings, adjust the angle of bindings to desired position before tightening nuts. Insert metal S2 binding base through plastic S2 topper.

How to Tune Your Freebord

Always give your Freebord a safety check before you ride. Check for wear and tear on the wheels, deck, trucks and bindings. Check all nuts and bolts to make sure they are tight (including wheel and kingpin nuts). Every rider is different and how you tune your board will have a big impact on how fast you learn and how well you ride. Experiment with the following adjustments to figure out how to adjust your board to best fit your riding style.

Freebord Complete Truck (click to enlarge)

Hangar Assembly (click to enlarge)


One of the first thing youll want to do when you get your freebord is adjust the tension of the hangar. This can be done by loosening or tightening the king pin nut. Small adjustments mean a lot and every rider is different. If youre a smaller rider make them looser so that its easier to carve/slide, heavier riders do the opposite. Loose trucks carve more and slide less. Tighter trucks slide more and carve less.

Set your front truck looser than your back truck to help initiate slides. Set them to equal tension if you plan to ride switch at all. Check for cracks and also check if they have bowed out to form a u rather than a line. Make sure you have speed washers on both sides of every edge wheel, and the edge wheel nuts are tightened.

Center Wheel Height

Your Freebord comes from the factory with the center wheel furthest from the board. The center wheels should be adjusted so that theres a minimum finger widths clearance between the downhill edge wheels and the ground. The more extended (away from the deck) the center wheel, the less likely the rider is to catch a downhill edge. But they will have to deal with more rocker in this position and therefore have harder transitions between toe and heel side turns.As your outer wheels wear down, adjust the center wheels closer to the deck to maintain a consistent amount of rocker. Rocker is the distance between your edge wheels and the pavement.The more rocker the easier it is to slide. Always set your two center wheels to the same height.

If the rocker is too much for you starting out, experiment by raising your center wheel one notch (towards the deck). This will give you less rocker but make it easier to catch an edge. When you improve, you will most likely want as much rocker as possible.


S2 Binding Parts (click to enlarge)

Make sure all screws and mounting hardware are tight. Do not tighten them too hard into the deck, as it could create stress fractures in the outer plys of your deck. You can adjust your bindings vertically and rotationally to allow a more custom stance.

Bindings can be mounted according to riders preference. If the pre drilled holes are not in the ideal spot, riders can drill new holes in the deck to get the stance they want. The decks are very rigid and can handle multiple drilled holes.


Baseplate Parts (click to enlarge)

Is your castor lubed? If not, a quick glob of Vaseline will do the trick. Do not use a water-based lubricant as it will wear out faster than a petroleum based product. While your base is off, check to see the cam axle is centered and your center wheel points straight. Also check to see your cam is still egg-shaped and in one piece.

Is your pivot cup good? Check to see that first off you have one and secondly that it is not cracked or torn. A missing or damaged pivot cup will greatly affect your boards turning ability.

Do you have springs? If not, put them back in or e-mail us about replacements. Do not take them out!

Wheel rotating

Edge wheels

Over time you will definitely have to replace your wheels. Wheels can last anywhere from 2 weeks to 4 months depending on how often you ride, the type and steepness of the pavement you ride, how much you slide, and your weight. Most riders favor one side on their slides. To help you wheels last longer, rotate them every so often.

New Edge Wheel vs. Worn Down Wheel

Identify your heel and toe edge wheels. To rotate your wheels properly you will need to cross the wheels in the shape of an X. This means that your rear heel edge wheel will now be your front toe edge. Your front heel edge wheel will become your rear toe side wheel, etc.

Center wheels

The center wheels normally do not need to be rotated. If you do notice your rear center getting smaller than the front, switch them around to counter the wear.

Changing Your Bearings

If your bearings are not spinning like they used to there are a few options. If you have removable shields like the Bones Reds then getting some bones speed cream will be the best option of re-lubing your bearings. You can use other products such as tri-flow or wd-40 but you will have to apply it much more often. If you have sealed bearings then you can soak them in a container of motor oil for 24 hours and the oil will work its way inside the bearing. The oil process can be used with any bearing type, sealed or not.

Edge Wheel Bearings

Edge Wheel Bearings (click to enlarge)

Unscrew the wheel nut and remove. Take your speed washer off the top and place it with your nut. Pull the edge wheel up just enough so that only the bottom bearing is still on the axle. Torque the wheel in a rocking motion as if you were giving a motorcycle some gas. The bearing should pop out of the wheel and will stay on the axle. Flip the wheel over and repeat.

Center Wheel Bearings

Center Wheel Bearings (click to enlarge)

First, remove your centers and one edge wheel. Place the center wheel on the axle of your hanger. The spacer in the center wheel will not go over the axle, so push down and it should pop the bearing out on the side touching your hand. Make sure when you press down your hand is clear of the top bearing.

To put bearings back in:

Place both bearings onto the axle. Take the edge wheel, graphic side down, and push it down onto the axle to get the top bearing seated in to the core of the wheel. Flip it over and push the remaining bearing in the back. At this point you should have your wheel on the axle the correct way with both bearings in and a speed washer between the hanger and inside bearing. Now just put the outer speed washer on and tighten down your nuts. This process is faster than a bearing puller and you never have to touch the bearings so changing them on the road doesnt have to be such a dirty process.